It’s now late November and with that marks the end to another barbecue season here in Winnipeg. With snow on the ground and the temperature steadily dropping, dashing out onto the patio in ones slippers with a plate of juicy steaks becomes less and less likely with each passing day. Although I really like my barbecue, and by extension all the brown sauce that accompanies it, I am not one of those people who goes all out with a year round outdoor barbecue complete with a canopy and exterior lighting. No, I’m far too lazy for that I’m afraid, for if I were even just a bit more industrious, I’d be putting my shoes on rather than running out into the cold with slippers or socked feet. Barbecue season is sadly over, and all brown sauce related cooking is once again relegated back to the kitchen as the barbecue once again settles under a blanket of snow.

November 2008 is also significant for another reason as it marks expiry of the very last of the remaining ‘Pre Heinz’ era Canadian HP Sauce stock. You may recall that during the period of transition to Canadian produced Heinz HP Sauce, I went out scouring store shelves where I bought up whatever remaining old stock I could find. The very last expiry date I was able to find was November ‘08.

When Heinz took over production of HP Sauce in Canada, the recipe changed with it, and although the Canadian HP Sauce recipe hadn’t resembled it’s British cousin in quite some time, it was a very good sauce in it’s own right - thick & spicy, ideal for bacon, steak & potatoes. The Heinz produced sauce on the other hand is thinner in both taste & texture. It no longer possesses that wonderful tingly aftertaste, the type of lingering flavour which reminded you of why you used HP Sauce in the first place. The new sauce fades quickly on the tongue and only serves as a reminder of what this sauce used to be; this despite the “100 Years” which now appears on the Heinz produced label. This is why I spent time digging through store shelves looking for old stock.

I’ve often wondered why the Canadian branded HP Sauce ever veered away from the original recipe at all. I once thought that perhaps it might have succumbed to some sort of Canadian food regulatory commission rule which forbade spirit vinegar in this type of product. If that were the case however, how is it that the wonderful Lea & Perrins original Worcestershire Sauce managed to escape unscathed? A quick look at it’s ingredients list will tell you this sauce has so far remained unchanged, with Spirit Vinegar remaining as one of the primary ingredients. It even retains its Royal Warrant, something one doesn’t see all that often anymore. The only other brand I know which also carries it is Carr’s water biscuits, a product I also buy regularly. Still, all is not rosy for Worcestershire however, and I fear for this sauce as well. My last visit to the supermarket revealed a new Heinz branded Worcestershire sauce standing right beside the Lea & Perrins. I was so disgusted, I didn’t even bother with comparing labels. Perhaps it’s time to stock up on it as well.

Another sauce which faces the November ‘08 deadline is the bottle of HP Mexican Chilli which David Bradbury so kindly sent me all those months ago. This sauce was also quite unique and it remains a favourite of mine, especially on burgers where it is absolutely fantastic. It however also faced a quick extinction as Heinz quickly stopped it’s production shortly after its introduction - only months after the buyout of HP Foods.

With the weather, the brown sauce scene looks rather bleak here in Canada. The one possible exception being small bright spot in the form of Branston’s Brown Sauce (Thanks Steve!) which at last account is still available at a local British import shop. For the time being however, the North American Brown Sauce market remains virtually ignored and untapped.

-Brad

*A quick shout out to Mandy who has sent in a couple photos recently. Thank you, your contributions keep things fun!

*Another shout to Rajesh who sent in a photo a few days ago. I’m not sure WHAT that was you sent, or whether it was even entirely appropriate (undetermined), but hey if it floats your boat…

This week we address a couple of visitor submitted questions.

1. David Holdford from the United States writes:

I wonder if you can help me please? I am trying to find the French text from the label of a HP Sauce bottle of the type that was on sale in the 1960s. I recollect that it started “Cette sauce de haut qualite…”

Can you help please?

Many thanks.

Thanks for your question David.

As it happens I was scanning some images from “The Road from Aston Cross - An Industrial History 1875-1975″ when I came across your question. As luck would have it, I recalled seeing a French label printed earlier in the book. This sample comes from a label printed in 1917 which although dated much earlier than what you had requested, may closely match the wording on the 1960’s label. From what I know of these labels, HP didn’t change the wording on their labels all that often, and minor revisions usually came in the form of refining a single word or two rather than the entire phrase. What’s less clear however is when the overall phrase was changed. If say they dropped the salad dressing recommendation in around this time, then it is likely that the rest of the phrasing could also be different as well.

Unfortunately I was unable to find a more recent example of a French HP Sauce label. I hope this helps!

HP Sauce French Label circa 1917
Source: The Road from Aston Cross - An Industrial History 1875-1975

1917 French HP Sauce Label:

“Cette sauce de premier choix possède les plus hautes qualités digestives.

C’est un assortiment de fruits d’Orient, d’épices et de Vinaigre de “Malt” pur.

Elle est absolument pure, appétissante ed délicieuse avec les viandes chaudes ou froides.

POISSON, JAMBON, FROMAGE, SALADE, &c., et pour reiver le goôt des SOUPES, HACHIS, RAGOÔ, &c.”

Daddie's Favourite Sauce Label circa 1909
Source: The Road from Aston Cross - An Industrial History 1875-1975

2. Alison from Hull, United Kingdom writes:

I have 16 bottles of Daddies brown sauce, Kingswood Asda in Hull had a stock of
them a while back, my uncle was getting frustrated that he couldn’t buy this brown sauce anywhere, he has taken what he wanted and i still have a lot left. Does anyone want it?

Running low on Daddie’s Brown Sauce?? Here’s your chance to stock up! Drop us a line and I’ll forward your email to Alison.

Good Luck!

I spotted this little clip while watching the British TV Series “As Time Goes By” starring Judi Dench and Geoffrey Palmer. Here, Jean (Judi) is up to her usual scheming and traps Lionel (Geoffrey) with a bottle of HP. It’s only by pure luck that I happened to catch it as I only watch this show very rarely. Enjoy!

Get the latest Flash Player to see this player.

*Note: I’ve had trouble getting this video to play in IE 7. If you have similar issues, please use a browser like Firefox or Safari, both of which seem to work without issue.

A little while ago while out paroosing for a film at the local video rental shop, I was encouraged to rent the title “Billy Elliot“. While I knew next to nothing about this film, I agreed that it would be at the very least an alternative to a lot of the other drivel lining the shelves. Sorry, but films like “Snakes On A Plane” hold no interest with me. I’m a Corrie fan through and through…with tastes far too posh for the likes of that nonsense!

Back to the movie. Warning, the following may contain spoilers. If you’ve not seen the film, I suggest simply clicking on the photos to fill your boots with HP Sauce, which is of course why we’re all here…

The story of Billy Elliot takes place in the fictional town in ‘Everington’ in County Durham, northern England during the mid 1980’s. Its in this setting where young 11 year old Billy, the son of an impoverished coal miner, discovers a love for ballet while taking and later avoiding boxing lessons at the local community hall as was expected of boys his age. With the help of dance instructor Mrs. Wilkinson, Billy secretly develops his ballet talents amidst the turmoil of the miners’ strike occurring outside the boxing gym walls.

Billy’s secret cannot be kept indefinitely however once Mrs. Wilkinson encourages Billy to try out for the Royal Ballet school in London. The timing could not have been worse as Billy’s father struggles to keep food on the table and the home fires lit. With no money left, he resorts to chopping up their beloved piano for heat while also learning that his son is in his eyes a “poof”. Billy isn’t however a “poof” as his father fears…that’s the other kid up the street. Billy just likes to dance! This distinction finally hits home once he catches Billy dancing one evening in the boxing gym. From that point on Billy’s father’s attitude is markedly different and he spends his time making every effort to see to his sons future in dance.

Then one day, Billy receives a letter from the Royal Ballet School in response to his application.

Billy Elliot receives a letter from the Royal Ballet School. Tension rises!

It is interesting that the directors chose this moment to show the kitchen table adorned with HP Sauce at its center. This same bottle was spotted ever so briefly earlier in the film, but it is in this scene where its presence is obvious. The impoverished Elliot family has no money and now no piano either. It’s remains nothing but embers at the bottom of the stove yet somehow they manage to keep HP on the table.

Father, Brother & Grandmother wait in anticipation. HP provides quiet comfort.

In the end Billy is accepted to the Royal Ballet School to which he later excels to great heights when he achieves the lead role in Swan Lake. How do I think his family toasted his success? With a bacon sarnie with lashing of sauce of course. Anything else wouldn’t be true to this films roots, even if that particular scene never did make it on film…

I enjoyed this film quite a bit. Sauce or no sauce, it really gives one a taste of what life might have been like for people in similar circumstances in northern England in the mid 1980s and the harsh day to day realities they endured.